Are anti bark dog collars cruel?

Aversive collars, or collars that rely on physical discomfort or even pain to teach a dog what not to do, are not a humane option. While they may suppress the unwanted behavior, they don’t teach the dog what the proper behavior is and they can create anxiety and fear, which can lead to aggression.

We all know how frustrating it can be to deal with a barking dog. Whether it is the neighbor’s pet at all hours of the night or your own pup’s incessant yapping, it can be difficult to find a way to stop the barks. Though some people may consider anti-bark dog collars as a way to curb the behavior, others may consider them cruel and inhumane. In this blog post, we will take a deeper look into anti-bark dog collars, examining the pros and cons of this type of training tool, and ultimately determine if they are indeed cruel. We will also provide tips on other ways to train a barking dog so that owners can make an informed decision on the best way to proceed. So, join us as we explore the subject of anti-bark dog collars and decide for ourselves if they are truly cruel.

What are Anti-bark Collars, and How do they Work?

Anti-bark collars are devices designed to curtail barking. When your dog barks, they work by immediately releasing a bad stimulus. Anti-bark collars can be categorized based on the types of unpleasant stimuli they are exposed to. The groups of collars are:

  • Electric or static bark collars
  • Citronella spray bark collars.
  • Ultrasonic sound bark collars
  • Vibration bark collars.
  • When the dog barks, some bark collars make a loud noise. However, they are less common because pet owners find the loud sound to be an annoyance.

    Anti-bark collars alter animal behavior through the use of punishment. As such, many animal pet trainers do not recommend them. But are they cruel?.

    After carefully considering the cruelty claims, we can confidently say modern anti-bark collars are not cruel. The designs discourage barking without hurting the dog.

    The gadget emits an unpleasant stimulus, like a vibration, whenever the dog tries to bark. It does not automatically result in pain. Similar to how an ultrasonic noise or citronella mist would be uncomfortable But hardly hurt your furry buddy. Anti-bark collars are more frequently used today by trainers and pet owners to stop unwanted barking.

    Some pet owners assert that canines can develop collar smarts. When wearing the device, the dog won’t bark, but when you take it off, the annoying behavior returns. So anti-bark collars are not effective for long-term behavior change.

    On the contrary, bark collars can aid positive reinforcement. An anti-bark collar can be used to teach a dog that barking causes discomfort. However, by patiently waiting for his turn, he receives a reward, and anti-bark collars contribute to a decrease in the number of dogs put down.

    What to Do About Your Dog’s Excessive Barking

    Identifying the type of bark your dog is emitting is the first step in reducing its barking. The answers to the questions below can help you identify the type of barking your dog is engaging in and determine how to solve its issue. As you read the following details on the various types of barking and their remedies, consider your answers to these questions.

  • When and where does the barking occur?
  • Who or what is the target of the barking?
  • What things (objects, sounds, animals or people) trigger the barking?
  • Why is your dog barking?
  • Determine if the barking is territorial or alarm behavior. Territorial behavior is frequently prompted by both fear and anticipation of a potential threat. Many dogs are highly motivated to bark when they notice the approach of unknown people or animals near familiar places, like their homes and yards, because defending territory is such a high priority to them. Due to its high level of motivation, your dog may ignore unpleasant or punishing responses from you, such as reprimands or yelling, when it barks territorially. The motivation for your dog to protect his territory will remain strong even if punishment stops him from barking, and he may try to do so by biting you without provocation.

    Territorial barking is a behavior used by dogs to warn neighbors when people are present, frighten away intruders, or both. When the mailman delivers the mail, the maintenance worker reads the gas meter, or other people are at the door, a dog may bark. He might also become agitated by the sounds and sights of dogs and people walking by your home or apartment. When dogs or people pass by while they are in a car, some dogs become especially agitated. Your dog’s body language and behavior should allow you to determine whether he is barking to say “Welcome, come on in!” or “Hey, you’d better hit the road.” If you’re dealing with a dog that fits into the first category, adhere to the advice given in this article for greeting barking (below). You’ll be more successful if you restrict your dog’s ability to see or hear onlookers and train him to associate the presence of strangers with positive things, like food and attention, if you’re dealing with a dog in the latter category who isn’t friendly to people.

    Your dog’s motivation and opportunities to defend his territory should be decreased in order to treat territorial barking. You must prevent your dog from seeing people and other animals if you want to control his behavior. Glass coatings applied with a spray gun or removable plastic film can help block your dog’s view of certain areas inside your home that he patrols and observes. Secure, opaque fencing should be used to enclose any outdoor spaces that your dog may access. Don’t let your dog welcome guests at the front door, the front yard gate, or the property line. Instead, teach him to go to a different place, such as a crate or a mat, and remain quiet until he is invited to greet properly.

    Territorial barking and alarm barking are very similar in that they are both sparked by sights and sounds. However, when on unfamiliar ground, dogs that alarm bark may do so in response to things that startle or frighten them. For instance, a dog that barks aggressively when he sees strangers approaching will typically only do so when he is in his own house, yard, or vehicle. In contrast, a dog that regularly barks in alarm may vocalize when he hears or sees strangers approaching in other locations as well. Despite the slight differences between territorial barking and alarm barking, the following suggestions apply to both issues.

    “Quiet” Training If your dog still barks alarmically or territorially despite your best efforts to keep him from being exposed to sights and sounds that could set him off, try the following methods:

  • Teach your dog that when someone comes to the door or passes by your property, he’s permitted to bark until you say “Quiet.” Allow your dog to bark three to four times. Then say “Quiet.” Avoid shouting. Just say the command clearly and calmly. Then go to your dog, gently hold his muzzle closed with your hand and repeat “Quiet.” Release your dog’s muzzle, step away, and call him away from the door or window. Then ask your dog to sit and give him a treat. If he stays beside you and remains quiet, continue to give him frequent treats for the next few minutes, until whatever triggered his barking is gone. If your dog resumes barking right away, repeat the sequence above. Do the same outside if he barks at passersby when he’s in the yard.
  • If you prefer not to hold your dog’s muzzle or if doing so seems to scare your dog or make him struggle, you can try a different method. When your dog barks, approach him, calmly say “Quiet,” and then prompt his silence by feeding him a steady stream of tiny, pea-sized treats, such as chicken, hot dogs or bits of cheese. After enough repetitions of this sequence, over several days or more of training, your dog will begin to understand what “Quiet” means. You’ll know that he’s catching on if he consistently stops barking as soon as he hears you say “Quiet.” At this point, you can gradually extend the time between the cue, “Quiet,” and your dog’s reward. For example, say “Quiet,” wait 2 seconds, and then feed your dog several small treats in a row. Over many repetitions, gradually increase the time from 2 seconds to 5, then 10, then 20, and so on.
  • If the “Quiet” procedure is ineffective after 10 to 20 attempts, then allow your dog to bark 3 to 4 times, calmly say “Quiet,” and then immediately make a startling noise by shaking a set of keys or an empty soda can filled with pennies. If your dog is effectively startled by the sound, he’ll stop barking. The instant he does, call him away from the door or window, ask him to sit, and give him a treat. If he stays beside you and remains quiet, continue to give him frequent treats for the next few minutes until whatever triggered his barking is gone. If he resumes barking right away, repeat the sequence. If this procedure doesn’t work after 10 to 20 attempts, please see our article, Finding Professional Behavior Help, for information about finding a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB or ACAAB), a board-certified veterinary behaviorist (Dip ACVB) or a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT) for guidance.
  • If your dog barks at people or other dogs during walks, distract him with special treats, like chicken, cheese or hot dogs, before he begins to bark. (Soft, very tasty treats work best.) Show your dog the treats by holding them in front of his nose, and encourage him to nibble at them while he’s walking past a person or dog who would normally cause him to bark. Some dogs do best if you ask them to sit as people or dogs pass. Other dogs prefer to keep moving. Make sure you praise and reward your dog with treats anytime he chooses not to bark.
  • It may help to have your dog wear a head halter at times when he’s likely to bark (for example, on walks or in your house). A halter can have a distracting or calming effect and make your dog less likely to bark. Make sure you reward him for not barking. (Important note: For safety reasons, only let your dog wear the halter when you can supervise him.)
  • If your dog most often barks territorially in your yard, keep him in the house during the day and supervise him when he’s in the yard so that he can’t just bark his head off when no one’s around. If he’s sometimes able to engage in excessive alarm barking (when you’re not around, for example), that behavior will get stronger and harder to reduce.
  • If your dog most often barks territorially in your car, teach him to ride in a crate while in the car. Riding in a crate will restrict your dog’s view and reduce his motivation to bark. If crating your dog in your car isn’t feasible, try having your dog wear a head halter in the car instead. (Important note: For safety reasons, only let your dog wear the halter when you can supervise him.)
  • “Go to Your Spot” Training Teaching your dog a set of behaviors to perform when guests enter your home will also help reduce the amount of times he will alarm bark. Additionally, your dog will learn that having people in his and your space is a positive thing when he exhibits his new behaviors and receives rewards.

  • Before you can train your dog to go to a spot and stay there when a door opens, you’ll need to teach him how to sit or lie down and then how to stay. After your dog has learned these skills, you can progress to Step 2.
  • Identify a place in your home where you’d like your dog to go when people come to the door. If possible, choose a place that’s at least eight feet away from the front door but still within sight. It might be a spot at the top of a set of stairs, inside the doorway of an adjacent room, your dog’s crate, or a rug positioned at the far corner of an entryway or foyer.
  • Say “Go to your spot,” show your dog a treat, and then throw the treat onto the spot where you’d like your dog to go. Repeat this sequence 10 to 20 times. By the tenth time, try pretending to throw the treat so that your dog begins to move toward the spot on his own. As soon as he’s standing on his spot or rug, throw him the treat. As your dog catches on, you can stop making the fake throwing motion with your arm and just give him the cue, “Go to your spot.” Then wait until he does and reward him.
  • Once your dog is reliably going to his spot, vary where you are when you send him there. Practice asking him to go to his spot from many different angles and distances. For example, say “Go to your spot” when you’re standing a few steps to the left of it. After a few repetitions, move a few steps to the right of the spot and say, “Go to your spot” from that position. Then move to another area in the room, then another, etc. Eventually, practice standing by the front door and asking your dog to go to his spot, just as you might when visitors arrive.
  • When your dog masters going to his spot, start asking him to sit or down when he gets there. As soon as your dog’s rear end hits the floor on the spot, say “Yes!” and reward him with a tasty treat. Then say “Okay,” and allow him to move off the spot. Repeat these steps at least 10 times per training session.
  • Now add stay into your exercise. Stand next to your dog’s spot. Ask him to sit or lie down, say “Stay” and wait one second. Then say “Yes!” or “Good!” and give him a treat. After you deliver the treat, say “Okay” to release your dog from the stay and encourage him to get off the spot. Repeat this sequence at least 10 times per training session. Progressively increase from one second to several seconds, but vary the time so that sometimes you make the exercise easy (a shorter stay) and sometimes you make it hard (a longer stay). If your dog starts to get up before you say “Okay,” say “Uh-uh!” or “Oops!” and immediately ask him to sit or lie down on his spot again. Then make the exercise a little easier the next few times by asking your dog to hold the stay for a shorter time. Avoid pushing your dog to progress too fast or testing him to see how long he can hold the stay before getting up. This sets your dog up to fail. You want him to be successful at least 8 out of 10 times in a row.
  • When your dog can consistently stay on his spot for at least 30 seconds, with you standing in front of him, you can start moving toward the door. Say the cue “Go to your spot,” walk with your dog to his spot, ask him to sit or lie down and ask him to stay. At first, just turn your head away from your dog. Then turn back to give him a treat and release him from the stay. After a few repetitions, make things a little harder. After your dog is sitting or lying down on his spot, ask him to stay and then take one step toward the door. Return immediately, give your dog a treat and then release him from the stay with your release word or phrase. Gradually increase the number of steps that you take away from your dog and toward the door. Eventually you’ll be able to walk all the way to the door and back while your dog stays sitting or lying down on his spot. (Don’t forget to keep rewarding him for staying!) If your dog stands up or leaves his spot before you release him from the stay, say “Oops!” the moment he gets up. Then immediately tell him to sit or lie down on his spot again and stay. Wait a few seconds and then release him. You may have progressed too fast. Next time, make the exercise a little easier so your dog can succeed. Ask him to stay for a shorter period of time and don’t move as far away from him. When he’s successful at an easier level, you can gradually make the exercise harder again. Never end your dog’s stay from a distance. Instead, always return to him, say “Yes,” give him a treat, and then say “Okay” to release him.
  • When your dog can consistently stay in a sit or a down on his spot for 30 seconds, while you turn away and walk to your front door, you can start to introduce some distractions. Tell your dog to stay, and then do something distracting. At first make your distractions mild. For example, start by bending down or doing a single jumping jack. Over many sessions of training, gradually intensify your distractions to things like running a few steps or tossing a treat on the floor. Reward your dog quickly after each distraction for holding the stay. If he breaks the stay, quickly say “Uh-uh,” ask him to sit or lie down on his spot, and try again. When your dog can stay while you do all sorts of distracting things, ask him to stay while you go to the front door of your home and pretend to greet someone there. Your goal is for him to learn to stay the entire time you’re at the door.
  • The next step in “Go to Your Spot” training is to recruit friends and family to help you conduct mock practice visits. Arrange to have someone come to the door. You will work with your dog to help him stay on his own. Be prepared! This will probably take a long time the first few visits. When you open the door, one of two things can happen. Sometimes you leave your dog there on his spot while you talk to the person at the door, as if your visitor is a courier or delivery person. Your dog never gets to say hello. (However, you, the person or both of you should frequently toss treats to your dog to reward him for staying.) At other times, invite the visitor in. Wait until the person sits down somewhere, and then release your dog to join you and your guest. When you have a friend help you with a mock visit, be sure to repeat the scenario over and over, at least 10 to 20 times. Practice makes perfect! Have the person come in for 5 to 10 minutes or just pretend to deliver something, then leave for 5 to 10 minutes, then return for a second visit, and so on. Your dog should experience at least 10 visits in a row with the same person. With each repetition, it will become easier for him to do what you expect because he’ll be less excited by the whole routine—especially when it’s the same person at the door, over and over again.
  • Continue to recruit people to help you practice “Go to Your Spot” exercises until your dog reliably goes to his spot and stays there until you release him by saying “Okay.” At this point, your dog should be able to perform his new “Go to Your Spot” skill perfectly about 90 percent of the time during training sessions. The hardest part for your dog will be going to his spot and staying there in real-life situations, when he hasn’t been able to do a few warm-up repetitions. To prepare your dog for times when real visitors arrive, ask friends who already know your dog well to drop by randomly when you’ll be home. Then ask friends who don’t know your dog well to drop by. With plenty of practice, your dog will be able to go to his spot and stay there, even when neither of you knows who’s at the door!
  • Eventually, when real visitors come to your home, you can ask your dog to go to his spot as soon as they knock or ring the doorbell. After letting your guests in, ask them to sit down. Wait about one minute before releasing your dog from his spot to greet them. Put your dog on a leash if you think he might jump on your guests or behave aggressively. After a minute or two of allowing your dog to greet people, ask him to lie down at your feet and stay. Give him something to keep him busy, such as a rawhide or a puzzle toy stuffed with something really tasty, like low-fat cream cheese, spray cheese or low-fat peanut butter, frozen banana and cottage cheese, or canned dog food and kibble. After your dog finishes with the rawhide or the KONG, he’ll probably go to sleep. If you repeat the ritual above for a while, your dog should learn to settle down calmly when guests visit your home.
  • Don’t be afraid to ask for assistance from a Certified Professional Dog Trainer or a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist in your area if you need assistance teaching your dog these skills. To help you through the process of teaching your dog to sit, stay, and go to a spot on command, a qualified trainer can meet with you one-on-one. To locate one of these professionals close to you, please see our article, Finding Professional Behavior Help.

    Greeting Barking If your dog barks at visitors at the door, at dogs or people passing by your property, at dogs or people he encounters while out for a walk, or at dogs or people he encounters through the fence, and his barking is accompanied by whining, tail wagging, or other signs of friendliness, your dog is likely barking to say hello. He probably makes the same barking noise when family members get home.

  • Keep greetings low key. Teach your dog to sit and stay when meeting people at the door so that he has something to do instead of barking. This will reduce his excitement level. First teach him to sit and stay when there aren’t any people at the door so that he knows the behavior well before you ask him to do it with the distraction and excitement of real visitors arriving.
  • If your dog likes toys, keep a favorite toy near the front door and encourage him to pick up the toy before he greets you or guests. If he learns to hold a toy in his mouth, he’ll be less inclined to bark. (He’ll probably still whine, however).
  • On walks, teach your dog that he can walk calmly past people and dogs without meeting them. To do this, distract your dog with special treats, like chicken, cheese or hot dogs, before he begins to bark. (Soft, very tasty treats work best). Show your dog the treats by holding them in front of his nose, and encourage him to nibble at them while he’s walking past a person or dog who would normally cause him to bark. Some dogs do best if you ask them to sit as people or dogs pass. Other dogs prefer to keep moving. Make sure you praise and reward your dog with treats anytime he chooses not to bark.
  • It may help to have your dog wear a head halter at times when he’s likely to bark (for example, on walks or in your house). A halter can have a distracting or calming effect and make your dog less likely to bark. Make sure you reward him for not barking. (Important note: For safety reasons, only let your dog wear the halter when you can supervise him.)
  • Attention-seeking Barking Dogs are very expressive, which is one of the reasons it’s so simple to live with them. They find a way to let us know their needs. They often do this by barking or whining. We actually find it desirable when they bark in order to ask to go outside and relieve themselves or to ask for their water bowl to be filled. However, it is less appealing when your dog barks incessantly to demand anything and everything, regardless of whether it is necessary. In order to get your dog to stop barking, you’ll need to consistently refrain from rewarding him for doing so. Demanding, noisy dogs have been trained to be this way, usually unintentionally. Don’t try to figure out exactly why he’s barking. Ignore him instead. Treatment for this type of barking can be challenging because, most of the time, dog owners unintentionally reinforce the behavior by making eye contact with, petting, correcting, or conversing with their dogs. All of these human actions can be considered rewarding attention to dogs. Try to convey to your dog through crystal-clear body language that his attention-seeking barking will not be successful. You could, for instance, turn away from your dog when it begins to bark for attention or leave the room when it does. Ask your dog to sit as soon as he stops barking, then give him whatever he requests—attention, play, treats, to go outside or come inside.

    In some situations, teaching your dog a substitute behavior is the simplest way to stop them from barking at you in the future. Install a doggy door, for instance, or teach your dog to touch a doorbell with his nose or paw to ring it if he needs to go outside or come inside instead of barking. Teach your dog to bring a toy and sit in front of you if he barks to get you to play with him. Sometimes, removing the triggers for your dog’s barking makes problems easier to avoid. Block the area if your dog barks for you to get his toys out from under the sofa so they won’t get stuck out of his reach. Give your dog a tasty chew bone to occupy him before he begins to bark if your dog barks at you while you’re on the phone or using the computer.

    Additionally, you can train your dog to be silent when asked. This will strengthen the link between quiet behavior and rewards or attention. Every time you want to give your dog attention, play, or treats, they should be quiet first. Giving your dog a surefire way to get attention frees him from having to yell for it. When your dog isn’t barking, regularly approach him and show him that you care with affectionate remarks, petting, and the occasional treat.

    Dogs can occasionally develop the compulsive behavior of compulsive barking, which is characterized by excessive or repetitive barking in situations that aren’t considered normal. If your dog barks continuously for an extended period of time, seemingly in response to nothing or at objects that other dogs wouldn’t find bothersome, like shadows, light flashes, mirrors, open doors, the sky, etc. , you may have a compulsive barker. Your dog may be a compulsive barker if he engages in other repetitive actions like spinning, circling, or jumping in addition to barking. You can experiment with altering your dog’s confinement to help reduce compulsive barking. For instance, if your dog is chained or tethered, you can switch to letting him run free in a secure yard. Likewise, if your dog is frequently left alone, you should increase his exposure to exercise, mental stimulation, and social interaction.

    We advise you to seek advice from a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist or a veterinary behaviorist if you believe your dog to be a compulsive barker. If a behaviorist is not available, you can turn to a Certified Professional Dog Trainer for assistance, but make sure the trainer is qualified to do so. Since this kind of experience is not necessary for CPDT certification, find out if she or he has training in treating compulsive behavior. For information on locating one of these behavior specialists in your area, please see our article, Finding Professional Behavior Help.

    Because social animals, dogs that bark socially are compelled to do so when they hear other dogs barking. By keeping your dog inside when other dogs are barking, playing music to drown out the sound of other dogs, and diverting your dog with treats or play when other dogs are barking (in real life or on TV), you can discourage this tendency.

    Barking in the Face of Excitement or Frustration Dogs frequently bark in the face of excitement while being prevented from achieving their goals. A dog, for instance, might growl in his yard out of frustration because he wants to play with the kids he hears in the street. A dog that is agitated may bark while running along the fence line with the dog next door or while standing by the patio door and watching a cat or squirrel play in his yard. Some dogs bark at other dogs on walks to greet and play with them, or they bark at their owners to get them to move more quickly as they get ready to go for walks. Teaching a frustrated dog to control his impulses through obedience training is the most efficient way to stop him from barking out of excitement or frustration. Before participating in enjoyable activities like walks, playing with other dogs, or chasing squirrels, you can teach your dog to wait, sit, and stay. You might require the help of a Certified Professional Dog Trainer to help you with this daunting task. Information on where to find a CPDT in your area can be found in our article, Finding Professional Behavior Help. Additionally, you can prevent cats and other animals from congregating in your yard by using motion-activated security systems to alarm intruders.

    Numerous tools are available to train dogs to reduce their barking. Most frequently, these are collars that cause your dog to bark while emitting an unpleasant stimulus. A loud noise, an ultrasonic noise, a spray of citronella, or a brief electric shock could all serve as the stimulus. The collars that deliver noise are ineffective with most dogs. According to one study, owners preferred the citronella collar over the electronic collar for curbing barking and it was at least as effective. Almost all dogs develop “collar wisdom,” or the ability to stop barking while wearing their anti-bark collars but resume barking when they remove them. In a home with multiple dogs, collars that detect dog barks using a microphone system shouldn’t be used because any dog’s bark could set them off.

    Anti-bark collars are punishment tools, so using them as a first line of defense against excessive barking is not advised. This is particularly true for barking that is prompted by phobias, anxieties, or compulsive behaviors. Please read our article, Finding Professional Behavior Help, for details on how to locate a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist, a board-certified veterinary behaviorist, or an experienced Certified Professional Dog Trainer for advice before using an anti-bark collar.

  • Do not encourage your dog to bark at sounds, such as pedestrians or dogs passing by your home, birds outside the window, children playing in the street and car doors slamming, by saying “Who’s there?” or getting up and looking out the windows.
  • Do not punish your dog for barking at certain sounds, like car doors slamming and kids playing in the street, but then encourage him to bark at other sounds, like people at the door. You must be consistent!
  • Unless a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist or veterinary behaviorist advises you to do otherwise, never use punishment procedures if your dog is barking out of fear or anxiety. This could make him feel worse and, as a result, his barking might increase.
  • Never use a muzzle to keep your dog quiet for long periods of time or when you’re not actively supervising him. Dogs can’t eat, drink or pant to cool themselves while wearing muzzles, so making your dog wear one for long periods of time would be inhumane.
  • Never tie your dog’s muzzle closed with rope, cord, rubber bands or anything else. Doing this is dangerous, painful and inhumane.
  • Are anti bark dog collars cruel?

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    Bark collars can spray your dog with citronella, make a high-pitched noise, or shock the dog in response to the sound of barking or the vibration of your dog’s vocal chords. None of these penalties successfully address the cause of the barking. In the best scenarios, they frighten and discomfort the dog. In the worst cases, they cause pain.

    Bark collars are cruel because they cause the dog pain or discomfort in an effort to get them to stop barking. There are more effective methods for dealing with excessive barking that don’t hurt your dog and deal with the underlying causes of the issue. Bark collars do not address the reason for the barking. Punishing your dog for being a dog is cruel because barking is a common behavior.

    FAQ

    Do vets recommend bark collars?

    Anti-bark collars are punishment tools, so using them as a first line of defense against excessive barking is not advised. This is particularly true for barking that is prompted by phobias, anxieties, or compulsive behaviors.

    Are bark collars that vibrate cruel?

    No, a vibration collar won’t hurt your dog; all it will do is buzz your dog’s neck. They will not shock or cause Fido any pain.

    Are bark collars humane for dogs?

    Bark collars are cruel because they cause the dog pain or discomfort in an effort to get them to stop barking. There are more effective methods for stopping excessive barking that are also more compassionate and won’t harm your dog. Bark collars do not address the reason for the barking.

    When should you not use a bark collar?

    However, there is one circumstance in which a bark collar should never be used to prevent barking. Some dogs may bark excessively if they are in pain or have hearing loss, cognitive issues, or brain diseases.