When I ask my grooming customers, “What would you like done today?” at check-in, almost every single person replies, “Trim the nails!” They don’t give me much feedback on the coat style, but those nails are of utmost importance in most pet owners’ lives.
If you’ve been grooming dogs for more than a minute, you know that sometimes dogs’ claws get overgrown. In many cases, the tender “quick” (the soft tissue inside the claw that houses nerve cells and a blood supply) is so long that it’s difficult to trim the nails back enough so they don’t touch the ground.
When a dog’s claws are that long, they pose a variety of problems: They are prone to getting damaged or broken during regular activity, and they cause the dog to walk abnormally, putting painful stress on their toes and joints. In addition, over time, overgrown nails can realign the dog’s joints and cause the shape of its foot to change. It can be a serious challenge to get the quick to recede far enough that safely, painlessly trimming the nails back to a healthy level can be accomplished.
Fellow groomer Damian McDonald (“Who Groomed That Dog,” Alberta, Canada) explained to me her technique for humanely and successfully shortening claws quickly and safely. I first read about her method on a Facebook grooming page and, intrigued, I tried it myself. It needed to be shared, and she kindly agreed to tell our readers how she successfully solved the problem of overgrown dog claws.
Have you ever tried to trim your furry friend’s nails only to hear that heart-stopping yelp when you cut too close to the quick? It’s a terrible feeling that makes many of us reluctant to trim our dog’s nails at all. But here’s the good news – yes, a dog’s quick can definitely recede with proper care and consistency!
As someone who’s dealt with this exact problem with my own pup, I’m thrilled to share everything I’ve learned about managing those pesky overgrown quicks Let’s dive into the details of how to get your dog’s nail quick to recede safely and effectively
Understanding Your Dog’s Nail Anatomy
Before we talk about how to make the quick recede it’s important to understand what we’re working with.
Your dog’s nails have two main parts:
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The outer shell – This is the hard part that resembles your own fingernails. It contains no nerve endings, so cutting this part doesn’t cause any pain.
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The quick – This is the inner part of the nail that contains both blood vessels and nerve endings. When you cut into this area, your dog feels pain and the nail will bleed.
The problem many of us face is that when we don’t trim our dog’s nails regularly, the quick grows longer along with the nail. This creates a vicious cycle – the longer the quick, the less nail you can safely trim, and the more difficult nail maintenance becomes.
How to Identify the Quick in Your Dog’s Nails
Identifying the quick varies depending on your dog’s nail color:
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Light-colored nails: You’re in luck! The quick appears as a pinkish line inside the nail that’s easy to spot.
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Dark or black nails This is trickier You’ll need to inspect from underneath and trim in very small increments After each small cut (about 1/16th of an inch), look at the cut surface head-on. If you see
- A clear nail: You can continue trimming another small bit
- A whitish color: You’re getting close to the quick
- A pinkish or black center: Stop immediately! You’re in the danger zone
Why Overgrown Quicks Are a Problem
Neglecting your dog’s nail care can lead to several issues:
- Overgrown nails can split or tear off, exposing the quick and causing extreme pain
- Your dog may develop mobility issues and altered gait
- The risk of nail infections increases
- Your dog may experience discomfort when walking
Signs of nail problems include:
- Clicking sounds when your dog walks on hard surfaces
- Visible discomfort when walking
- Nails that curl or touch the ground
- Reddish-purple skin as your dog licks their paws to ease discomfort
Can the Quick Actually Recede? Science Says Yes!
The big question many pet owners have is whether an overgrown quick can actually recede, and the answer is a resounding YES!
The nail quick isn’t a static structure – it’s living tissue that responds to consistent maintenance. With proper care, you can train the quick to recede back to a healthier length. This isn’t just something that works for some dogs – it works for ALL dogs with proper technique and patience.
How to Get Your Dog’s Quick to Recede: Two Proven Methods
Method 1: Consistent Activity and Exercise
Getting your pup moving on hard or abrasive surfaces naturally wears down their nails and encourages the quick to recede. This includes:
- Regular walks on sidewalks or concrete paths
- Hiking on rocky terrain
- Playing on rougher surfaces
Just be careful during hot weather – pavement can get too hot for your dog’s sensitive paw pads!
Method 2: Weekly Nail Trimming (The Most Effective Approach)
This is the most reliable method for training the quick to recede:
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Choose the right tools – Either scissor-type or guillotine-style clippers work well. Guillotine clippers are often easier for thick nails.
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Establish a weekly trimming schedule – Consistency is key! Mark it on your calendar.
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Start with tiny trims – Cut just 1/16th of an inch off the tip of each nail.
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Inspect after each small cut – For light nails, look for the pink quick. For dark nails, look for the color change at the cut surface.
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Repeat weekly – Even if you’re only taking off tiny amounts each time, the consistent trimming sends signals to the quick to recede.
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Be patient – This process takes time, sometimes several months, but it WILL work!
My Personal Experience with My Dog’s Quick
When I first adopted my Lab mix, his nails were horribly overgrown. I was terrified of hurting him during trims, but I knew neglecting them would only make things worse. We started with weekly micro-trims – literally just shaving off tiny bits each time.
The first month, I could barely trim anything without getting dangerously close to his quick. But by month three of consistent weekly trims, I noticed I could cut back further. Now, six months later, his quicks have receded significantly, and nail trims are no longer a stressful experience for either of us!
What to Do If You Accidentally Cut the Quick
Accidents happen to even the most careful pet parents. If you cut into the quick:
- Don’t panic! Your reaction will influence your dog’s.
- Apply styptic powder immediately to stop the bleeding (keep this on hand before you start trimming).
- Apply gentle pressure with a clean cloth.
- Give lots of treats and comfort.
- If bleeding doesn’t stop after 20-30 minutes or there appears to be other damage, call your vet.
Warning Signs of Nail Infections
If your dog has injured a nail or the quick is exposed, watch for signs of infection:
- A foul smell coming from the nail
- Pus when you gently squeeze the toe pad
- Reddish-purple skin around the nail
- Excessive licking of the paw
- Fever (anything over 103°F in dogs)
If you notice these symptoms, keep the area dry and get to a vet quickly. An e-collar (cone) might be necessary to prevent your dog from licking the infected area.
FAQ About Dog Nail Quicks
Does the nail quick get longer if you don’t cut your dog’s nails?
Absolutely yes! When nails are allowed to grow unchecked, the quick grows right along with them. This makes future trimming more difficult and increases the risk of pain and injury.
How long does it take for a dog’s quick to recede?
With consistent weekly trimming, you should start to see noticeable recession within 2-3 months. However, complete recession for severely overgrown quicks may take 4-6 months or longer.
How often should I trim my dog’s nails to help the quick recede?
For quicks to recede effectively, trim your dog’s nails once a week. This regular schedule is key to training the quick to pull back.
Can I use a nail grinder instead of clippers?
Yes! Nail grinders (like Dremel tools designed for pets) work well for many dogs. Some pets actually prefer the grinding sensation to clipping. Just be careful not to generate too much heat with the grinder.
When to See a Professional
If you’re nervous about trimming your dog’s nails yourself, especially if they’re severely overgrown, don’t hesitate to schedule a visit with a professional dog care specialist or groomer. They can:
- Show you proper technique
- Help establish a regular trimming schedule
- Provide tips for making the process less stressful
Many vets and groomers offer nail trimming services at reasonable prices, and the education you receive is invaluable.
My Top Tips for Successful Nail Trimming
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Make it positive – Use lots of treats and praise throughout the process.
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Stay calm – Dogs sense our anxiety, so take deep breaths and maintain a relaxed demeanor.
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Proper positioning – Hold your dog’s paw firmly but gently, placing your thumb under the toe pad to extend the nail.
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Good lighting – Make sure you can clearly see what you’re doing.
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Take breaks – It’s okay to just do a few nails at a time if your dog gets anxious.
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Be consistent – Even if you can only trim tiny amounts, weekly consistency is what teaches the quick to recede.
Conclusion: Patience Pays Off
The journey to receding your dog’s nail quick isn’t a quick fix – it requires commitment and consistency. But I promise the results are worth it! Not only will you save money on professional grooming, but you’ll also protect your dog from the pain and complications of overgrown nails.
Remember the two keys to success:
- Consistency – Weekly trims without fail
- Patience – Trust the process even when progress seems slow
With these principles in mind, you and your furry friend will be on the path to healthier, more comfortable nails in no time. Your dog’s feet will thank you, and those dreaded nail trimming sessions will become much less stressful for everyone involved!
Have you had success getting your dog’s quick to recede? What techniques worked best for you? I’d love to hear your experiences in the comments!
Would you mind describing the method you use to shorten claws safely?
“On overgrown nails, I first use nail clippers to take off the majority of the nail (Fig 1). When I can see that I have trimmed back to the soft inner nail surrounding the quick, I stop cutting and switch to the Dremel (Fig 2). Envisioning the position of the quick inside the nail, I use the Dremel to file away the hard outer nail, going all the way around the tip of the nail (Fig 3). You can think of it sort of like sharpening a pencil. I use my judgment to determine how far back to go from the tip of the nail; on longer and thicker nails, I will go back further (Fig 4).
It’s a bit of a learning curve. It would help if you kept in mind that once you’ve Dremeled off the outer nail, the exposed part will be more delicate for a couple of days while it hardens. I make sure not to go too far back that a broken nail becomes a risk (this has never happened with one of my clients, but I believe it could be possible). Occasionally I have focused on getting as close to the quick as possible in extremely overgrown nails. In that case, I will ask the owner not to take the dog running or allow extreme exercise until the claws have had a couple of days to harden.”
“I use a Dremel brand tool, the Dremel 3000, to be specific. It’s a 10-speed Dremel, but I never go above speed five or six—you don’t need that much power. I appreciate the small increases of power it provides though, especially when doing this method of nail grinding. Lower speeds give you more control when taking off small amounts of the nail with less risk of grinding into the quick. I use a metal tip on my Dremel. I chose smaller tips than the standard sandpaper bands, and I find that I like them better. I believe it’s the best-suited tip for this method. The metal tips are much more forgiving when making contact with skin, and can be lightly skimmed against the dog’s paw pad when grinding the underside of a nail without irritating the paw.”
Would you please describe the results you have seen? And have you used this method on many dogs?
“I have used this method on too many dogs to count at this point because I do it, to an extent, on every dog that gets nail grinding done. However, in the year or so that I have been using this method, I have had several dogs come to me specifically for quick-recession services. These clients are instructed to bring the dog back between 10-14 days for a second session, and if needed, for a third session in that same time frame. These are the dogs that I have noticed a difference in. When I was trained, and in the years that followed, the method of getting quicks to recede was to clip or Dremel almost to the tip of the quick and then have the dog come back every week or two and repeat this as many times as needed. It would take several sessions to get quicks back to a semi-desirable length. With this method, I’ve been thrilled to see excellent results in usually just two sessions.”