A dusty path meanders down a 9,000-foot Colorado peak near my cabin that’s situated just outside of Rocky Mountain National Park. My two dogs and I follow it through boulders, streams, and a river to get our sunshine fix a couple times a week. It’s one of the most remote trails in the area—I’ve only ever seen one other hiker here—so I often let the pups off leash.
Last fall, we were out on our usual hike when the dogs parked themselves at one spot on the trail. Their bodies were poised and focused, and their noses were glued to the ground. I turned around the bend and then I saw it: a spinal column attached to two legs with hooves on the ends. It was probably a deer that had been taken by one of our local mountain lions. And my dogs were picking away at the decaying bones. At the same moment I commanded them to “drop it,” my Rottweiler, Rocket, gulped and swallowed a big chunk of something. The hair on my arms stood up.
I’ve seen Rocket swallow a brownie, a bag of habanero jerky, tin foil, and half a rib bone before. But I couldn’t believe I had been careless enough to let her repeat that behavior in the wild around dead things. I worried that this deer carcass would be the snack that finally killed her.
Rocket was ultimately fine—she didn’t even show signs of an upset stomach that day—but I took this incident as a learning opportunity to create better strategies to protect her in the future. Over the next few months, we created a routine of practicing recall by using treats as positive reinforcement for Rocket and Bowser, my other dog. We practiced the “drop it” command, showing them that a quick response time would pay off with their favorite marrow-filled morsels. After we mastered recall in the back yard, we began practicing these tricks in more distracting places like the trail.
On my journey to become a better dog mom, I also reached out to Lisa McCarthy, a veterinarian and owner of Midtown Veterinary Medical Center in Fort Collins, Colorado. McCarthy has been practicing for 34 years and met many dogs with indiscriminate palates.
Is your furry friend treating the world like an all-you-can-eat buffet? You’re not alone. As a dog owner who’s dealt with this frustrating behavior, I know exactly how stressful it can be watching your pup try to devour everything from trash to rocks to that suspicious “something” on your daily walk.
Whether you call it scavenging hoovering or being a vacuum cleaner with legs, this behavior isn’t just annoying—it can be downright dangerous. The good news? With some patience and consistent training, you can teach your dog better habits.
Why Dogs Eat Everything in Sight
Before jumping into training solutions, it helps to understand why your dog might be treating the world like a buffet
- Natural scavenging instinct: Dogs are descendants of opportunistic scavengers
- Boredom or anxiety: Some dogs eat non-food items out of stress or lack of stimulation
- Nutritional deficiencies: Though less common, some dogs seek out strange items when missing nutrients
- Medical issues: Conditions like pica or digestive problems can trigger unusual eating habits
- Curiosity: Puppies especially explore the world with their mouths
- Attention-seeking: Some dogs learn that grabbing forbidden items gets a reaction from you
The Dangers of Scavenging Behavior
Your dog’s habit of eating everything isn’t just gross—it can lead to:
- Intestinal blockages requiring expensive surgery
- Poisoning from toxic substances
- Choking hazards
- Dental injuries
- Parasites from consuming feces or carrion
- Weight gain from excessive food consumption
One dog I know nearly died from eating toadstools during a walk. Another racked up a $2000 vet bill after swallowing a pound of pine needles! So addressing this behavior isn’t just about convenience—it’s about keeping your pup safe.
Training Techniques to Stop the Scavenging
1. The “Leave It” Command
This is your first line of defense against a scavenging dog:
- Start simple: Hold a treat in your closed fist
- Wait it out: Let your dog sniff, lick, or paw at your hand
- Mark the moment: The instant your dog backs away, say “yes!” and reward with a DIFFERENT treat
- Add the cue: Once your dog understands the concept, add the words “leave it” before presenting your closed fist
- Increase difficulty: Progress to open-hand treats, then floor treats, then items your dog typically scavenges
For more challenging items (like that half-eaten sandwich at the park), you’ll need to pair “leave it” with the next technique.
2. Teaching “Come Away” for Strong Distractions
When your dog is fixated on something tasty, you need a strong recall command:
- Start indoors: Practice calling your dog away from tempting (but safe) food items placed on raised surfaces
- Use high-value rewards: The reward for coming away must be better than what they’re leaving behind
- Progress to outdoor training: Set up “fake” scenarios where you plant tempting items outdoors
- Use a long line: Keep your dog on a training line during practice to prevent successful scavenging
- Never “reel in”: Your dog should make the choice to come away, not be pulled away
This training takes time, but it’s worth it! I’ve seen even serious scavengers learn to look to their owner instead of foraging.
3. The “Drop It” Command
For those times when your dog has already grabbed something:
- Offer a trade: Present something of higher value (like chicken or cheese)
- Say “drop it”: As soon as your dog releases the item for your treat, mark with “yes!”
- Practice regularly: Set up training sessions where you let your dog pick up a low-value item, then trade
- Gradually build difficulty: Once reliable with toys, practice with more tempting items
Remember: never chase your dog or try to physically remove items from their mouth, as this can trigger resource guarding or encourage them to swallow items quickly.
Management Strategies While Training
Training takes time, so here are some ways to manage the problem while you work on it:
1. Use a Basket Muzzle When Necessary
Many owners are hesitant about muzzles, but a properly fitted basket muzzle:
- Allows your dog to pant, drink, and take treats
- Prevents them from eating dangerous items
- Can be a literal lifesaver for serious scavengers
Basket muzzles work best for solid objects rather than gooey messes. Some owners report success with specialized products like the Outfox Field Guard, which uses netting to prevent scavenging while allowing full mouth movement.
2. Keep Your Home “Scavenge-Proof”
- Store trash in secure containers
- Keep clothing, shoes, and children’s toys picked up
- Use baby gates to block access to kitchens or bathrooms
- Consider crating your dog when unsupervised if they’re prone to eating household items
3. Provide Appropriate Mental Stimulation
Bored dogs are more likely to scavenge, so:
- Use puzzle feeders instead of regular food bowls
- Provide appropriate chew toys
- Schedule regular training sessions
- Engage with your dog during walks rather than just letting them wander
One of my clients completely eliminated her Lab’s scavenging behavior by switching to puzzle feeders and implementing a 15-minute training session each day.
4. Keep Walks Engaging
A dog that’s busy retrieving a ball or practicing obedience skills is less likely to hunt for gross things to eat. Keep your pup mentally engaged during walks by:
- Practicing obedience commands intermittently
- Playing structured games like fetch (if appropriate)
- Changing up your walking routes
- Stopping for short training sessions during walks
Special Considerations for Different Scavenging Types
The Garbage Raider
If your dog targets trash cans:
- Use locking trash cans in your home
- Teach solid “leave it” and “come away” commands for walks
- Consider a basket muzzle for walks in urban areas
The Poop Eater
This particularly gross habit (technically called coprophagia) requires specific management:
- Clean your yard regularly
- Keep your dog leashed in areas with wildlife droppings
- Consider products like For-Bid that make feces taste unpleasant
- Rule out nutritional deficiencies with your vet
The Rock/Stick Eater
Dogs who eat non-food items like rocks, sticks, or clothing may have a condition called pica:
- Consult your veterinarian to rule out medical causes
- Provide appropriate chew toys as alternatives
- Consider a basket muzzle for walks
- Focus intensively on “leave it” training
When to Seek Professional Help
If despite your best efforts your dog continues eating everything in sight, it might be time to call in reinforcements:
- Veterinarian: To rule out medical issues like nutritional deficiencies, digestive problems, or pica
- Professional dog trainer: For personalized training plans if basic “leave it” training isn’t working
- Veterinary behaviorist: For cases that might involve anxiety or compulsive disorders
My Experience and Final Thoughts
Having dealt with this issue with my own Lab mix, I know the frustration of constantly vigilant walks and occasional emergency vet visits. The combination of a basket muzzle for high-risk areas and consistent training eventually solved our problem.
What worked best for us was:
- Consistent “leave it” training using progressively more tempting items
- Making sure walks were engaging and interactive
- Using a basket muzzle in areas with high temptation
- Switching to puzzle feeders to satisfy his foraging instinct appropriately
Remember that this is a common problem, especially in certain breeds like Labradors. Be patient with your dog (and yourself) during training. The process takes time, but the peace of mind when your dog finally ignores that half-eaten sandwich on the sidewalk is worth every minute of training!
Have you found any creative solutions for preventing your dog from eating everything? I’d love to hear your experiences in the comments below!

How to Train Your Dog if It Eats Random Things Outside
Eating random things in the wild poses the risk of a health emergency for your dog, says McCarthy: “At best, you’re going to take the risk of very bad gastroenteritis (garbage gut) from eating stuff that’s rotten. At the very worst, you can end up with a hideous disease that wildlife carries. Who wants to eat rotten meat? And they could end up with gastrointestinal blockages that require surgery.”
I am aware that Rocket’s obsession with food could easily morph into an expensive vet bill or death. And I want to make sure that we never end up in that situation.
McCarthy says managing the dogs’ freedom is key to their own safety. “Dogs really should not be off leash. We all know that,” she says. “They’re more likely to get injured, hurt, in a scrap with wildlife, or lost, or eat something they shouldn’t when they’re off leash.”
Some Dogs Will Eat Anything. Here’s Why.
I also wondered if Rocket’s addiction to everything that’s edible (and some things that aren’t) could be indicative of a health issue. Was she experiencing a nutritional deficiency of sorts? Did she have some kind of a disorder? Was there something larger at play in her behaviors?
McCarthy says probably not. “Dogs [are obsessive eaters] because they explore the world with their mouths. They can’t pick things up in their hands like we do. You see it especially in puppies, and that’s how they’re learning,” says McCarthy, adding: “Of course their sense of smell is 1,000 times better than ours. They can clearly pick up on things that are there that have nutritional value or seem tasty even when it seems gross. The classic example is eating poop.”
How To Stop Your Dog Biting And Chewing Everything!
FAQ
How do I get my dog to stop eating everything?
How do I teach my dog not to eat anything?
To teach this command, start by offering a treat in your closed hand and saying “Leave it.” When your dog stops trying to access the treat, praise and reward them with a different treat from your other hand. With consistent practice, your dog will learn to associate the command with ignoring food on the ground.
At what age will my dog stop eating everything?