Scout, my blue heeler, is (or was) what you might describe as “reactive.” She would act in a variety of unsavory ways when she saw another dog, including raising her hackles, growling, barking, and occasionally lunging at the end of the leash.
I’ll never forget the first time it happened. A few days after being knocked to the ground by a dog we saw on the sidewalk, we were in a pet store when, seemingly out of nowhere, she began barking at something on the opposite side of the aisle shelf.
It turned out that she was being observed by another dog through a rift in the cat food display.
I was dumbfounded, and I felt entirely out of control. Was every other shopper staring at me like I was a terrible owner? How had this happened? What had I done wrong?
She started acting erratically toward every dog we passed over the course of the following few days, even if they were a full street block away.
We’ve come a long way since then. I’ve given my timid, sweet shelter dog’s transformation into a raving lunatic at the sight of her own species a lot of thought. We’ve spent even more time resolving it so that we can respect each other and socialize with each other in public.
Some things I’ll never fully understand (and dwelling too much isn’t helpful either), but this is Scout’s “reactivity story,” as I see it.
The term is frequently used slightly differently by owners and trainers. Reactive dogs typically exhibit inappropriate responses to environmental stimuli.
Technically speaking, every dog is reactive in the sense that every dog responds to events in some way. A glance is a reaction. A yawn is a reaction. Making space is a reaction.
However, the term “reactive” when referring to dog training typically denotes that the dog reacts in ways that humans find inappropriate. Consider actions like lunging, flipping at the end of the leash, growling, barking, standing on the hind legs, or any other actions that would appear to be frightening to onlookers.
To ignore the countless details when classifying a reactive dog would be careless. Although there are rarely simple solutions, generally speaking, dog trainers distinguish between two types of reactivity:
When a normally friendly dog becomes a monster at the sight of other dogs on leashes, this is known as a barrier frustration. This is because being restrained is annoying, and he or she really wants to “say hi” or investigate!
Dogs with boundary frustration reactivity are frequently very sociable. They might attend a regular daycare center or have many friends at the dog park. Their temper tantrums are typically brought on by being unable to reach their desired destination.
On the other hand, fear reactivity is when a dog reacts out of insecurity. They’re afraid of the stimulus, so they don’t want it to get any closer. While being restrained by a leash may contribute to the issue because it eliminates their ability to “flight” in the fight-or-flight paradigm, a dog that feels frustrated by its boundaries is the real culprit.
I like to compare Scout to a porcupine when describing her fear reactivity to friends and family. She “puffs up” and tries to look scary when she sees another dog because she is afraid, hoping that will make the fear go away.
She doesn’t want to hurt anyone, and if another dog actually comes close to her, she will immediately submit. She responds in an effort to prevent a confrontation and maintain her distance.
Blue Heeler Protective Nature
They have a very protective nature because Blue Heelers were bred to be herding dogs and guard their flock.
They may watch over other dogs and can be fiercely devoted to and protective of other pets living inside the house.
Aggression Usually Means the Dog Has Been Poorly Treated
However, I do not think a dog is naturally aggressive. When a dog attacks you, it’s typically because they’ve been mistreated at some point in their life. It may have been either kicked or repeatedly hit. Something triggers a memory causing this aggression in a dog. He might become agitated if you unintentionally step on its tail. Sincerely, you would defend yourself if someone threw you to the ground or jumped on you.
A few other points about heelers:
But if properly cared for by their owners, these lovely dogs will provide you with countless years of devoted love and protection. They enjoy playing with toys, taking walks, and playing in parks.
Do Blue Heelers Get Along With Other Heelers?
Blue Heelers do get along with other heelers and value having a friend who can keep up with them while playing because of their high energy level.
FAQ
Do Blue Heelers bite other dogs?
It’s not uncommon for Australian blue heelers to nip and bite. They are herding dogs. A herding dog is a breed of dog that has either been bred for herding or has been trained to herd livestock. Other names for herding dogs include stock dogs, shepherd dogs, sheep dogs, and working dogs. https://en. wikipedia. According to Wikipedia, herding dogs nip and bite the flanks of other animals in order to “herd” them in a specific direction.
How do you stop blue heeler aggression?
Although they don’t bark, they are fiercely protective when used as watchdogs because they are loyal to their owners and cautious of strangers. The Australian cattle dog may exhibit dominance and herding behaviors toward children and is frequently aggressive toward other canines.
Are cattle dogs friendly with other dogs?
They are brave and will take the necessary measures to defend their lands. They frequently exhibit aggression or a desire to rule over other canines of the same sex. Due to their strong prey drive, Australian Cattle Dogs will pursue (and capture) cats and other animals that may flee from them.