Are harnesses good for puppies?

Those of you who have worked with me or visited my website know that I tend to recommend dog harnesses in a fairly consistent manner. Harnesses are now regarded by many trainers as the new standard for leash walking, in contrast to the past when they were thought of as additional equipment to use if your dog couldn’t walk on a flat collar. I prefer harnesses because they protect the dog’s throat from injury. Many experts now advise against fastening the leash to objects near the dogs’ throats because doing so can cause damage to the thyroid, esophagus, and trachea and alter the dogs’ physical alignment. It prevents the dog from receiving an unintentional collar correction as a result of handler error even if your dog walks nicely on leash because they may pull forward if startled. This is because it’s a human reaction to pull when we’re startled as well.

This does not necessarily imply that all harnesses are equal; some are made for small dogs, others for larger dogs, and still others are simply poorly made. The straps of the harness need to sit far away from the dog’s joints; this is the second-most important factor I look for when purchasing a dog harness. At best, the straps will be uncomfortable for your dog, and at worst, they could injure them in the future and prevent young dogs from growing properly if they sit on or are too close to the dog’s shoulders. The straps on Phoebe’s balance harness can be seen in the image below; they are placed far from her shoulders.

Some dogs are so sensitive to wearing equipment that they will completely shut down when you put a harness on them; this can occasionally be changed with proper equipment conditioning, but in the event that it cannot, I believe using a flat collar in this situation is appropriate.

Make sure the harness has both a front and back leash attachment if your dog is particularly strong, and you might want to think about getting a double ended leash like this one. Please keep in mind that no piece of equipment—not even prong, choke, or shock collars, which I do not recommend—can teach your dog how to walk nicely on its own. You will always need to rely on that particular piece of equipment if you don’t teach the dog the skill first.

When fitted properly, none of the harnesses on the following list will restrict your dog’s movement because they sit away from their joints. A front and back attachment is also present on the majority of these harnesses. If there is anything unique about the harness that needs to be noted, I have noted it next to the harness name.

Petsafe Easy walk harness: Sadly, despite being the most widely used harness on the market, it is made very poorly and does not take the physiology of dogs into consideration. At most Petsmarts and Petcos, this front clip harness is the standard. While walking, The Easy Walk can rub the dog’s shoulder blades because it is directly on them. Additionally, it becomes significantly looser with use and is very simple for a dog to escape. Last but not least, Petsafe is a company that markets shock collars and other punishment tools, so I try to avoid doing business with them whenever possible.

Sense-ation harness: While a step up from the easy walk harness, this harness is still not ideal. It is easier to fit properly because it lacks the additional martingale loop of the easy walk, which prevents it from loosing as much. The sense-ation harness, like the Easy Walk, sits across the dog’s shoulder blades and may restrict movement.

Julius K9 harness: This harness is very popular in the world of dog sports. The harnesses are very well made, but like the ones mentioned above, they fit the dog’s shoulders directly. Additionally, this harness has only a back clip attachment and is not a “no pull” harness. I believe the Julius K9 Harness is suitable for a dog to wear for brief periods of time (i e. on a leash for nosework or other dog sports), but I wouldn’t suggest it for regular hiking or walking.

The first effective management tool available to positive trainers to deal with strong dogs pulling when they wanted to avoid using prong or choke collars, head halters (also known as head collars, head haltis, and head harnesses) were all the rage when they first appeared. Head halters have lost favor with many positive trainers in recent years, including myself. This is due to the fact that recent research and personal experience have demonstrated that head collars are uncomfortable for the majority of dogs and can result in serious facial and neck injuries if they are misused. I would only recommend a head halter now if the owner and dog are so physically different that other options are simply unsafe. Additionally, when using a head halter, the owner must never jerk or pull on the dog, which can be challenging for most dog owners. It can take several weeks of conditioning the dog to learn to tolerate it, as in the video created by Jean Donaldson below. Many dogs do not take to a head halter as easily as they do to a no pull harness.

After their first time using a harness, a client I recently worked with stated they no longer wanted to use one on their dog; when I inquired as to why, they replied that the harness had rubbed the dog’s hair off on his shoulders. The harness was an extremely ill-fitting Easy Walk model, and it did result in hair loss where it rubbed. However, this is not a general issue with all harnesses; rather, it was a problem with the kind of harness, how it fit, and how they were using it. Pulling on the dog while out for walks only served to aggravate the annoyance the harness was already causing. However, everything in this blog is clearly illustrated by this example. When selecting the equipment you use with your dog, you should be careful because not all harnesses are created equally.

The Pros and Cons of Dog Collars

These are the most basic dog products available and are easy for keeping ID tags and rabies tags around your dog’s neck.

There are different types of collars to try — flat collars work for dogs that know how to walk on a leash without pulling; martingale collars (limited slip collars) are great for dogs whose necks are about the same size as their heads and can slip out of flat collars; rolled collars work well to hold your dog’s ID, but won’t flatten or matt the hair underneath them.

Collars may give you better control and require less physical strength from you as you’re walking your dog than harnesses, depending on your dog’s size.

Many dog trainers recommend that you begin leash training for a puppy with a four-foot leash and flat collar and use positive reinforcement (think praise and treats) to encourage your pup to walk by your side.

The variety of styles and materials available makes them easy to put on and take off, comfortable for your dog, attractive, and long-lasting.

If the fit is too loose, your dog may be able to wiggle out and escape; this is especially true for dogs like Greyhounds and Whippets, whose heads are often smaller than their necks.

If the fit is too tight, it may be painful for your dog.

Dog collars may contribute to back pain, throat damage, and other discomfort.

Make sure you select the right size for your dog. If you can fit one finger between the skin of your dog and the collar (for small dogs) or two fingers (for large breed dogs), then the collar is the right size.

Avoid using so-called corrective collars, such as choke and prong collars, as they can harm your neck and even choke you.

Is a Collar or Harness Better for Puppy Training?

For training purposes, a harness is typically preferable to a collar.

Harnesses make it easier to control and/or manage your puppy. They lessen the possibility of harm to you and your pet while also relieving stress. They are also perfect for dogs that haven’t mastered using a lead for walking.

Harnesses come in a variety of styles, such as the back-clip, front-clip, and dual-clip.

The back-clip type is the most common, easy to use and safe for puppies. It attaches at the rear of the harness which reduces the risk of throat injuries.

The front-clip style provides better control over your pet and limits pulling, without causing discomfort or pain for your puppy. The front clip is located under the dog’s chin, in front of the chest.

The dual-clip variety combines the easy of the back-clip with the control of the front-clip. The only downside is that it is often more expensive than the other options.

If at all possible, collars should be worn with harnesses as they give you a way to keep your dog’s license and other identification information on him. This is vital. You are covered if your dog escapes the harness and wanders off.

Different collars serve different purposes. For instance, the most typical collars are rolled or flat, but if your puppy gets their mouth caught in one, it could be dangerous.

Martingale collars, on the other hand, are comparable to flat types but, when properly adjusted, less likely to come off your puppy’s head.

Choke chains or pinch collars are designed to correct bad behavior when training your puppy. Choke chains provide a sharp ‘jerk’ motion whereas pinch collars contain metal spikes that dig into or ‘pinch’ the neck. Both these collars teach a dog to associate misbehavior with strong correction. However, if used incorrectly, they can seriously harm your pet. Therefore, these devices should only be used by trained professionals.

In essence, rewarding good behavior rather than punishing bad behavior should be the foundation of puppy training. It’s advised to use a harness rather than a collar when training your pet, especially if you do it yourself.

The majority of veterinarians prefer harnesses to collars; however, be sure to select the appropriate one for your pet’s size. Purchase a harness that fits snugly, but not so tightly that it “cuts in” and is uncomfortable to wear after measuring the puppy’s ribcage.

How to Choose the Best Collar for Your Puppy?

The following are the most crucial factors to take into account when selecting a collar for your pet.

Keep in mind the breed of your dog as you make your decision regarding which collar is best for it.

It’s important to note that this is just a guideline and that some collar manufacturers make it really simple: they list the suggested breed types right on the label.

FAQ

What age can you put a harness on a puppy?

A harness is generally well-tolerated by dogs, with very few exceptions. Given that you’ll get your puppy at least 8 weeks old, puppies can be taught to wear a harness practically from birth. Allow them to adjust for a few days before beginning to instruct them.

Is a dog harness better than a collar?

In general, harnesses are more secure and better at preventing accidents because they fasten around your dog’s body more tightly. Harnesses provide much greater security and safety, says Fox, as opposed to collars, which can be easily removed by dogs, increasing the risk of them running into the street or into someone else’s yard.

How long should a puppy wear a harness?

A dog should ideally only wear a harness when going on walks, during training, or during other outdoor activities where it will be necessary. This duration may range from 15 minutes to three or more hours. A dog collar works just as well around the house as a dog harness.

Should you train a puppy with a harness?

Because it prevents your dog from pulling and potentially injuring their neck, a harness is perfect for walking and training them.